Monday, September 26, 2011

Skin care essentials, ready mixed or "do it yourself"

By Hannah Sivak, PhD
Biochemist, Skin Actives Scientific LLC

It is tough to choose what you actually need for your skin. Rather than following the latest fad inspired by marketing, think of what you are trying to achieve and/or what your skin problems are. Then look through these long tables and pick exactly what you need, nothing more and nothing less. You will save yourself lots of money and aggravation.Ready mixed

"Skin Actives Scientific" productsAcne: acne control kit, salicylic wash
After-40: anti-age cream
Cellulite: cellulite cream
Eczema and psoriasis: anti-inflammatory cream
Eye brows: KGF serum in applicator
Hair loss: hair serum with KGF
Healing, sun damage, irritated skin: MNS serum
Lips: liquid rainbow
Oily skin: T-zone serum, salicylic wash
Party time: Celestite spritz, DMAE serum
Pore diminisher: T-zone serum, salicylic wash, alpha/beta exfoliation kit
Post procedure (laser, surgery) healing kit: Rosacea serum, rosehip oil, anti-age cream
Rosacea: rosacea control serum, Celestite spritz
Skin Lightening: Skin brightening cream
Skin tightening: 4% DMAE serum
Spider veins: capillary health cream

For all skin types: alpha/beta exfoliator, CHAS serum, ELS, Bright-I cream,
Coffee cream, marine nutrient cream, sea kelp bioferment.

Actives for "Do it Yourself" mixing

5 alpha reductase inhibitors: saw palmetto
Acne: retinyl acetate (use at night), white willow extract, liquorice, saw
palmetto, calcium pantothenate
Acne scars: Centella asiatica, copper peptide
Allergy, atopic dermatitis: Andrographis paniculata, quercetin, calcium
pantothenate
Antibacterial: white willow bark extract, liquorice, Coleus oil, tea tree
oil, lemongrass essential oil
AntiOx: antiOx booster, acai, alpha lipoic acid, glutathione, SOD, grape
seed proanthocyanidins, EGCG, kinetin, tetrahydrocurcuminoids
Cancer prevention/control: betulinic acid + caffeine green tea + EGCG green
tea + pomegranate oil, mangosteen: amla, silymarin
Capillary health: see actives in SAS capillary health cream
Collagen synthesis and protection: ascorbic acid, niacinamide, N-acetyl
glucosamine,
Boswellia serrata, Centella asiatica, copper peptide, epidermal growth
factor, green tea
N-acetyl glucosamine, horse chestnut, natural active peptides, retinyl
acetate, sea kelp bioferment
Cold sores: sea kelp, liquorice, propolis, fungal beta glucan (for
prevention use Liquid Rainbow)
Dark under-eye circles: amla, chrysin.
Skin elasticity: melatonin, lutein, retinyl acetate, carnitine, betulinic acid,
Centella asiatica
Gray hair: Rubia cordifolia
(and hair serum with KGF)Healing: EGF + Centella asiatica + copper peptide
Hyaluronic acid synthesis and preservation: hyaluronic acid, Boswellia
serrata
Modulation of immune response: yeast beta glucan, , Bupleurum falcatum
Inflammation, irritation: bisabolol, mangosteen, allantoin, Jiaogulan,
lutein, quercetin, white willow extract, phytosterols, betulinic acid,
Boswellia serrata, Bupleurum falcatum, Polypodium leucotomos
Lip color: hesperidin
Mitochondrial health and energy production: CoQ10, resveratrol, carnitine,
creatine pyruvate, alpha lipoic acid,
Phytoestrogens: soy isoflavones, wild yam
Post-radiation treatment: Canvas, calcium pantothenate, rosehip oil,
melatonin, EGF, Boswellia serrata, Centella asiatica
Pre-procedure bruise prevention: rosehip oil and vitamin K
Protease inhibitors: betulinic acid, Boswellia serrata, pomegranate extract,
horse chestnut
Prevention of protein glycosylation (Maillard reaction): carnosine, Boswellia serrata,
Psoriasis: Centella asiatica, PLE
Repair of skin barrier: GABA, olive extract, sodium PCA, phytosterols,
ceramides, lecithin, olive extract.
Rosacea: liquorice, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde
Scars and stretch marks: Centella asiatica, quercetin, rosehip oil,
phytosterols.
Seborrheic dermatitis: sea kelp, niacinamide, green tea EGCG to control
sebum production, beta glucanSkin lightening: please see actives in skin brightening cream
Skin color: niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine
Sun protection: lutein, Polypodium leucotomos, resveratrol, silymarin
Wrinkle relaxer (freeze action) : GABA, Jiaogulan extract, argireline

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